Learn how to crochet this beautiful crochet puff circle in a square motif and join as you go with a very pretty lacy edge. This motif would look stunning in a cotton yarn and would make for a gorgeous shawl - blocking your project will really make the delicate lacy join stand out.
The puff stitch is one of my favourites and has such great texture!
Used with soft acrylic yarn, it makes for the most squishy blanket. A versatile motif which I hope you will enjoy!
Beg Puff = Beginning Puff (yo, into ch sp, yo, pull back through 3 TIMES - 7 Loops on hook - yo, pull through 6 loops, yo, pull through remaining 2 loops.)
Puff = (yo, into ch sp, yo, pull back through 4 TIMES - 9 Loops on hook - yo, pull through 8 loops, yo, pull through remaining 2 loops.)
Dc = double crochet
ss = slip stitch
Round 1:
Into MR, ch4 (which counts as 1dc = ch2)
[*2dc, ch2*] x 7 then end with 1dc, ss to 2nd ch of initial ch4, then ss into the ch2 sp.
{8 clusters of 2dc with ch2 inbetween}
Round 2:
ch2, Beg Puff (see abbreviations) ch2, puff into same ch2 sp from round below, ch2.
[*puff, ch2, puff, ch2*] into each ch2 sp from the round below. Join with ss into ch2 sp inbetween the 1st 2 puffs of the round. {8 clusters of puff ch2 puff with ch2 inbetween - 16 puffs total}
Round 3:
ch2, Beg Puff, ch3.
[*puff, ch3*] into each ch2 sp from the round below. Join with ss into ch3 sp inbetween the 1st 2 puffs of the round.
{16 puffs with ch3 inbetween}
Round 4: Join new yarn to any ch3 sp from round below - for Join As You Go, substitute out one ch from corners and side for a ss to join. Please see video if unsure
ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc in same sp.
into next ch3 sp: *4dc, ch3, ss to front loop of 4th dc, 4dc* CORNER FORMED
sc in next ch3 sp. ch5, sc in next ch3 sp. ch5, sc in next ch3 sp SIDE FORMED
into next ch3 sp: *4dc, ch3, ss to front loop of 4th dc, 4dc* CORNER
sc in next ch3 sp. ch5, sc in next ch3 sp. ch5, sc in next ch3 sp SIDE
into next ch3 sp: *4dc, ch3, ss to front loop of 4th dc, 4dc* CORNER
sc in next ch3 sp. ch5, sc in next ch3 sp. ch5, sc in next ch3 sp SIDE
into next ch3 sp: *4dc, ch3, ss to front loop of 4th dc, 4dc* CORNER
sc in next ch3 sp. ch5, sc in next ch3 sp. ch5, ss to inital sc to finish.
If you spot any errors in the written pattern please shout! I'd love to see any projects that you make - please tag me on Facebook or Instagram (or use the hashtag #hookedbyrobin)
Happy Crocheting!
Robin x
*Disclosure: some of the links posted below are affiliate links which means that, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a small commission if you click through and make a purchase. This helps me to keep my content free :-) Thank you! *
Looking for a super quick crochet project? Well look no further! You can whip up these guys in under half an hour, perfect for when you need a gift FAST!
Materials:
Yarn Debbi Bliss Lolli (discontinued but some shades still available here: https://amzn.to/2ZQMXJ1 )
3mm Crochet Hook
Stuffing
6mm Safety Eyes
Keyring blanks
Large eye needle
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
BLO = back loop only
inc = increase (2sc in same stitch)
inv dec = invisible decrease
* * repeat the pattern inbetween the asterix X amount of times
{ X } number of stitches at the end of the round
Work in continuous spiral; do not join your work at the end of the rounds
Written Pattern:
Leave long tail to start
1. Into Magic Ring, 6sc {6} Bring long tail of Magic Ring through to the front of the work
2. *inc* x 6 {12}
3. *sc, inc* x 6 {18}
4. *sc, sc, inc* x 6 {24}
Add keyring blank at this point - see video
5, 6, 7 & 8 *sc* x 24 {24}
9. working in BLO, *sc* x 24 {24}
Add eyes and mouth - see video
10. *sc, sc, inv dec* x 6 {18}
11. *sc, inv dec* x 6 {12}
Crochet along with me to make yourself a happy little watermelon slice! He is the perfect shelf buddy to hang out with when you need cheering up or to feel a little summery 🍉
This kawaii little watermelon is designed as home decor and NOT as a toy so please do not give this to a child! He is made using double crochet and single crochet stitches (USA Terms) so is super simple and fast to make.
Scroll for the written pattern!
Materials Needed:
4mm & 3mm Crochet Hook
Yarn of choice in watermelon colours (2 greens and 1 hot pink) and some pale pink and black for additional features
10mm Safety Eyes
Stuffing
WRITTEN PATTERN
Abbreviations:
MR = Magic Ring
DC = Double Crochet
SC = Single Crochet
SS = Slip Stitch
CH = chain
inc = increase (2 dc in same stitch)
* ..... * repeat the pattern between the *
{ X } = number of total stitches at end of round
USA Stitch Terms
Round 1 - using hot pink & 4mm Hook
MR, ch2 (does not count as a stitch) 12 dc into the ring, join with ss to 1st dc of the round {12}
Round 2
ch2 (does not count as a stitch) *inc* x 12, join with ss to 1st dc of the round {24}
Round 3
ch2 (does not count as a stitch) *1dc, inc* x 12, join with ss to 1st dc of the round {36}
Round 4
ch2 (does not count as a stitch) *2dc, inc* x 12, join with ss to 1st dc of the round {48}
Round 5- using light green
ch2 (does not count as a stitch) *3dc, inc* x 12, join with ss to 1st dc of the round {60}
Round 6- using dark green
ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc in each stitch around, join with ss to 1st sc of the round {60}
Fold circle in half
Round 7 - ss 2 sides together, pausing to add safety eyes and stuffing (see video)
Enbroider face and seed details
CHEEKS - using 3mm hook
MR, 6sc, ss to join to 1st sc of the round. Sew to face.
This vintage inspired Little Boy Blue Crochet Baby Blanket is a great introduction to filet crochet with a nice easy and fast pattern repeat. Very beginner friendly with a timeless feel - the ideal blanket!
📌 MATERIALS
4mm Crochet Hook
Yarn required: 2 and a bit balls for the main body of the blanket - buy 3 and you'll be covered!
Body of the blanket uses: Cygnet Kiddies Kaleidoscope DK
Baby Blanket dimensions: approximately 35" x 29" (90cm x 64cm)
Total Rows (including set up row 1) 75
Stitch abbreviations - USA STITCH TERMS:
Dc = Double Crochet
Ch = Chain
Sk = skip
* ..... * = repeat the pattern in between the asterisk symbols
Ch2 turning chain does NOT count as a stitch
WRITTEN PATTERN: Pattern multiple of 4
Chain 120
Row 1:
Dc into 5th ch from hook. Dc in next 2 chains. *ch1, sk1, 1dc in next 3 chains* until end 5 chains. Ch1, sk1 and end with 1dc in each of the last 4 chains
Row 2:
Ch2, turn. Dc in 1st 2 stitches. *ch1, sk1, dc in next stitch, dc in ch1 space, dc in next stitch* repeat and end with dc in last 2 stitches.
Row 3:
Ch2, turn. DC in 1st 4 stitches. *ch1, sk1, dc in next stitch, dc in ch1 space, dc in next stitch* repeat and end with dc in last 4 stitches.
Repeat Rows 2 & 3 for pattern.
End with 75 rows total.
BORDER VIDEO:
If you have any questions about this pattern / spot any errors / notice any typos but holler!
I would absolutely LOVE to see any Cluster Circle Squares you make – please feel free to tag me in your photos on Instagram (I am @puddnhead) or post them to my Facebook page here! <3
This is my very popular Purrmaid pattern which was one of my bestsellers. I now am releasing this pattern for FREE here on my blog. If you would like an ad free PDF version, for a small fee it can be purchased from my Etsy store here VIDEO TUTORIALS FOR THE PURRMAID ARE BEING RELEASED THIS WEEK! Subscribe to my YouTube channel HERE!
·
1 x 50g ball Scheepjes Stone Washed in “Moon Stone”
·
Variegated yarn of your choice (less than 50g required for tail)
·
A scrap of black & a scrap of pink dk yarn
·
3.5mm hook
·
Stuffing
·
Stitch Marker (optional but advised – particularly when working
the head)
·
Needle
·
Scissors
Stitches used:
v Magic ring / circle
v Sc (single crochet)
v Inc (increase = 2sc in same stitch)
v Dec (decrease = 1sc over 2 stitches) – I use the invisible decrease working in the
front loops only
v Hdc (half double crochet)
v Dc5tog (double crochet 5 together) – this forms a bobble for the toe
v Slip Stitch (ss)
v Fsc
(foundation single crochet)
Repeat the pattern between the
square brackets “[ ]” the number of
times as shown by “X number”
The number in brackets “( )” at the end of each round is your total
stitches that you will have worked in that round
Unless specifically instructed,
work in spirals; do not join at the end of your rounds.
Purrmaid Head, Body & Tail– worked as one piece
The head is made using staggered increases
to avoid the hexagonal increase lines you would normally find in standard
circle increasing.
You may find using a stitch marker at the
end of your rows helpful for this part in particular as the stitch count is
more unusual than standard amigurumi increasing and it is easy to lose your
place!
So, with your trusty stitch marker at the
ready – let’s begin!
Using Moon Stone
1.
Magic ring, 6sc (6)
Place stitch marker and move after each subsequent round
2.
[inc] x6 (12)
3.
[1sc, inc] x6 (18)
4.
1sc, inc, [2sc, inc] x5, 1sc (24)
5.
[3sc, inc] x6 (30)
6.
2sc, inc, [4sc, inc] x5, 2sc (36)
7.
[5sc, inc] x6 (42)
8.
sc in each stitch around (42)
9.
sc in each stitch around (42)
10.
sc in each stitch around (42)
11.
sc in each stitch around (42)
12.
sc in each stitch around (42)
13.
sc in each stitch around (42)
14.
[5sc, dec] x6 (36)
15.
2sc, dec, [4sc, dec] x5, 2sc (30)
16.
[3sc, dec] x6 (24)
17.
1sc, dec, [2sc, dec] x5, 1sc (18)
Stuff head firmly
18.
[1sc, dec] x6 (12)
19.
[2sc, dec] x3 (9)
Finish stuffing head
20.
[2sc, inc] x3 (12)
21.
[inc] x6, 6sc (18)
22.
sc in each stitch around (18)
23.
4sc, [inc] x6, 8sc (24)
24.
sc in each stitch around (24)
25.
sc in each stitch around (24)
26.
7sc, [inc] x6, 11sc (30)
27.
sc in each stitch around (30)
28.
sc in each stitch around (30)
29.
10sc, [inc] x6, 14sc (36)
30.
sc in each stitch around (36)
31.
sc in each stitch around (36)
CHANGE COLOUR – use variegated yarn for tail
section now
32.
sc in each stitch around (36)
33.
sc in each stitch around (36)
34.
sc in each stitch around (36)
Now we will begin shaping the bend in the tail. We will be using
SHORT ROW SHAPING.
This can be a little difficult to describe so I have included a
colour coded chart at the end of the short row shaping section to help
visualise your stitches rather than adding too many colour photographs.
No longer working in continuous rounds but working back and forth
in rows.
Turn your work after each row. Your chain 1 does NOT count as a
stitch.
You will be adding 2 stitches on each row and joining to row 34.
Your first added stitch will be your beginning stitch and will go
into the stitch behind where you have turned from the row below.
Your second added stitch will be your last stitch which goes into
the next sc in Row 34.
35.
2sc, ch1, turn. (2)
36.
1sc in row below, 2sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (4)
Row 36 in photo form!
37.
1sc in row below, 4sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (6)
38.
1sc in row below, 6sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (8)
39.
1sc in row below, 8sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (10)
40.
1sc in row below, 10sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (12)
41.
1sc in row below, 12sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (14)
42.
1sc in row below, 14sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (16)
43.
1sc in row below, 16sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (18)
44.
1sc in row below, 18sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (20)
45.
1sc in row below, 20sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (22)
46.
1sc in row below, 22sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, SLIP STITCH
in next stitch along on row 34 (24)
47.
TURN your work. Skip ss, 1sc in each stitch around ending with
your last sc going into the same stitch as your slip stitch from last round. (36)
Back to working in continuous spirals
48.
sc in each stitch around (36)
49.
27sc, [dec] x3, 3sc (33)
50.
sc in each stitch around (33)
51.
26sc, [dec] x3, 1sc (30)
52.
sc in each stitch around (30)
Stuff body section to tummy.
Leave neck free of stuffing
You will be using slip stitches in the next few rounds – try to
keep them as loose as possible otherwise you will struggle to get your hook
into them on the following round
53.
8sc, 10hdc, 8sc, 4ss (30)
54.
8sc, 10hdc, 8sc, 4ss (30)
55.
1ss, 7sc, 10hdc, 7sc, 5ss (30)
Stuff bottom
56.
dec, 7sc, 10hdc, 7sc, [dec] x2 (27)
57.
[dec] x2, 4sc, 11hdc, 4sc, [dec] x2 (23)
58.
6ss, 11hdc, 6ss (23)
59.
6ss, 11hdc, 6ss (23)
Stuff tail section a little
more
60.
dec, 6ss, 8hdc, 5ss, dec (21)
61.
sc in each stitch around (21)
62.
dec, 15sc, [dec] x2 (18)
63.
sc in each stitch around (18)
64.
sc in each stitch around (18)
65.
sc in each stitch around (18)
Stuff. From this point,
continue to lightly stuff and shape as you go.
66.
[dec] x2, 12sc, dec (15)
67.
sc in each stitch around (15)
68.
sc in each stitch around (15)
69.
sc in each stitch around (15)
70.
[dec] x3, 7sc, dec (11)
71.
sc in each stitch around (11)
72.
sc in each stitch around (11)
73.
sc in each stitch around (11)
74.
[dec] x2, 7sc (9)
75.
sc in each stitch around (9)
76.
sc in each stitch around (9)
77.
1sc, [dec] x3 (6)
78.
sc in each stitch around (6)
Cut yarn, thread needle and run
through the outside loops of the last 6 stitches, pull tight then weave in.
Tail Fin – first side
BLO = work into the back loop only
Chain 1 does not count as a stitch
1.
[fsc] x9, ,ch1, turn (9)
2.
BLO 9sc, ,ch1, turn (9)
3.
BLO 7sc, ch1, turn (7)
4.
BLO 7sc, ch1, turn (7)
5.
BLO 5sc, ch1, turn (5)
6.
3ss (3)
Cut yarn leaving tail for
sewing onto tail
Tail Fin – second side
BLO = work into the back loop only
Chain 1 does not count as a stitch
1.
[fsc] x9, ,ch1, turn (9)
2.
BLO 9sc, ,ch1, turn (9)
3.
BLO 7sc, ch1, turn (7)
4.
BLO 7sc, ch1, turn (7)
5.
BLO 5sc, ch1, turn (5)
6.
3ss, then join to first side with 2ss through both fins. (5)
Cut yarn leaving tail for
sewing onto tail
Using the tail ends from your
fsc, thread onto a needle and pass into the center of your fins. Pass both
tails through and knot securely at the back.
Pin to the main body of the
tail then using your long tails (not the ones you just knotted) sew onto the
main tail down each side.
Weave all ends into the body of
the tail.
Arms– make two
1.
Magic ring, 6sc (6)
2.
[inc] x6 (12)
3.
[1sc, inc] x6 (18)
4.
1sc, [dc5tog, ss] x4, 9sc (18)
Using the handle of your crochet hook or finger, push the bobbles
from the inside to ensure they are fully puffed out
5.
10hdc, [dec] x4 (14)
You will be using slip stitches in the next few rounds – try to
keep them as loose as possible otherwise you will struggle to get your hook
into them on the following round
6.
10hdc, [ss] x4 (14)
7.
10hdc, [ss] x4 (14)
8.
1ss, 7hdc, 1ss, 5sc (14)
9.
sc in each stitch around (14)
10.
[5sc, dec] x2 (12)
11.
sc in each stitch around (12)
12.
[2sc, dec] x3 (9)
Fasten off yarn leaving a long
tail for sewing to the body.
Leaving the arm unstuffed and
flattening the paw gives a nice effect.
To flatten the paws, push the center
of the paw flat firmly with your thumb to create inward curve to the paw hands.
One arm will curve down whilst
the other curves up. This makes your kitten very posable and expressive!
Ears– make two
1.
Magic ring, 3sc
(3)
2.
[inc] x3
(6)
3.
[1sc, inc] x3
(9)
4.
[2sc, inc] x3 (12)
5.
[3sc, inc] x3 (15)
Fasten off yarn leaving a long
tail for sewing to the head.
Assembly
Pin ears and arms in place – I
like to slightly squash the top of the arms and sew on flat as this gives the
kitten a floppy, posable quality.
Embroider the face with your
pink and black scraps of yarn and you are done!
I would absolutely LOVE to see any Purrmaids you make – please feel free to tag me in your photos on Instagram (I am @puddnhead) or post them to my Facebook page here! <3 br="">
Happy Crocheting!
Robin x
The sharing of this pattern is not
permitted. You may not sell this pattern, claim it as your own or use the
photographs.
You
are however, welcome to sell your completed purrmaid.
I would appreciate it hugely if you include credit to me “HookedbyRobin”
for the pattern
