Saturday, 10 August 2019

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Crochet Little Boy Blue Vintage Baby Blanket | Easy Filet Pattern | Great for Beginners (& Fast!)



This vintage inspired Little Boy Blue Crochet Baby Blanket is a great introduction to filet crochet with a nice easy and fast pattern repeat. Very beginner friendly with a timeless feel - the ideal blanket!

Little Boy Blue Crochet Baby Blanket


 📌 MATERIALS

4mm Crochet Hook

Yarn required: 2 and a bit balls for the main body of the blanket - buy 3 and you'll be covered! Body of the blanket uses: Cygnet Kiddies Kaleidoscope DK

Border uses half a ball of yarn: Scheepjes Colour Crafter

I buy my yarn from Snufflebean Yarn




Baby Blanket dimensions: approximately 35" x 29" (90cm x 64cm)

Total Rows (including set up row 1) 75

Stitch abbreviations - USA STITCH TERMS:

Dc = Double Crochet
Ch = Chain
Sk = skip
* ..... * = repeat the pattern in between the asterisk symbols

Ch2 turning chain does NOT count as a stitch



WRITTEN PATTERN:   Pattern multiple of 4

Chain 120

Row 1:

Dc into 5th ch from hook. Dc in next 2 chains. *ch1, sk1, 1dc in next 3 chains* until end 5 chains. Ch1, sk1 and end with 1dc in each of the last 4 chains

Row 2:

Ch2, turn. Dc in 1st 2 stitches. *ch1, sk1, dc in next stitch, dc in ch1 space, dc in next stitch* repeat and end with dc in last 2 stitches.

Row 3:

Ch2, turn. DC in 1st 4 stitches. *ch1, sk1, dc in next stitch, dc in ch1 space, dc in next stitch* repeat and end with dc in last 4 stitches.

Repeat Rows 2 & 3 for pattern.

End with 75 rows total.


BORDER VIDEO:




If you have any questions about this pattern / spot any errors / notice any typos but holler!

I would absolutely LOVE to see any Cluster Circle Squares you make – please feel free to tag me in your photos on Instagram (I am @puddnhead) or post them to my Facebook page here! <3

Happy crocheting! Robin x
Continue reading Crochet Little Boy Blue Vintage Baby Blanket | Easy Filet Pattern | Great for Beginners (& Fast!)

Wednesday, 29 May 2019

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Crochet Purrmaid Mermaid Cat - FREE amigurumi mercat pattern



This is my very popular Purrmaid pattern which was one of my bestsellers. I now am releasing this pattern for FREE here on my blog. If you would like an ad free PDF version, for a small fee it can be purchased from my Etsy store here

VIDEO TUTORIALS FOR THE PURRMAID ARE BEING RELEASED THIS WEEK!

Subscribe to my YouTube channel HERE!


Crochet amigurumi purrmaid pattern FREE



(USA Stitch Terms)


Materials needed:



· 1 x 50g ball Scheepjes Stone Washed in “Moon Stone”
· Variegated yarn of your choice (less than 50g required for tail)
· A scrap of black & a scrap of pink dk yarn
· 3.5mm hook
· Stuffing
· Stitch Marker (optional but advised – particularly when working the head)
· Needle
· Scissors


Stitches used:

v Magic ring / circle

v Sc (single crochet)

v Inc (increase = 2sc in same stitch)

v Dec (decrease = 1sc over 2 stitches) – I use the invisible decrease working in the front loops only

v Hdc (half double crochet)

v Dc5tog (double crochet 5 together) – this forms a bobble for the toe 

v Slip Stitch (ss)

v Fsc (foundation single crochet)

Repeat the pattern between the square brackets “[ ]” the number of times as shown by “X number”

The number in brackets “( )” at the end of each round is your total stitches that you will have worked in that round

Unless specifically instructed, work in spirals; do not join at the end of your rounds.




Purrmaid Head, Body & Tail – worked as one piece

The head is made using staggered increases to avoid the hexagonal increase lines you would normally find in standard circle increasing.

You may find using a stitch marker at the end of your rows helpful for this part in particular as the stitch count is more unusual than standard amigurumi increasing and it is easy to lose your place!

So, with your trusty stitch marker at the ready – let’s begin!

Using Moon Stone

1. Magic ring, 6sc (6)
Place stitch marker and move after each subsequent round

2. [inc] x6 (12)
3. [1sc, inc] x6 (18)
4. 1sc, inc, [2sc, inc] x5, 1sc (24)
5. [3sc, inc] x6 (30)
6. 2sc, inc, [4sc, inc] x5, 2sc (36)
7. [5sc, inc] x6 (42)

8. sc in each stitch around (42)
9. sc in each stitch around (42)
10. sc in each stitch around (42)
11. sc in each stitch around (42)
12. sc in each stitch around (42)
13. sc in each stitch around (42)

14. [5sc, dec] x6 (36)
15. 2sc, dec, [4sc, dec] x5, 2sc (30)
16. [3sc, dec] x6 (24)
17. 1sc, dec, [2sc, dec] x5, 1sc (18)

Stuff head firmly



18. [1sc, dec] x6 (12)
19. [2sc, dec] x3 (9)

Finish stuffing head

20. [2sc, inc] x3 (12)

21. [inc] x6, 6sc (18)
22. sc in each stitch around (18)

23. 4sc, [inc] x6, 8sc (24)

24. sc in each stitch around (24)
25. sc in each stitch around (24)

26. 7sc, [inc] x6, 11sc (30)

27. sc in each stitch around (30)
28. sc in each stitch around (30)

29. 10sc, [inc] x6, 14sc (36)

30. sc in each stitch around (36)
31. sc in each stitch around (36)

CHANGE COLOUR – use variegated yarn for tail section now




32. sc in each stitch around (36)
33. sc in each stitch around (36)
34. sc in each stitch around (36)


Now we will begin shaping the bend in the tail. We will be using SHORT ROW SHAPING.

This can be a little difficult to describe so I have included a colour coded chart at the end of the short row shaping section to help visualise your stitches rather than adding too many colour photographs.



No longer working in continuous rounds but working back and forth in rows.

Turn your work after each row. Your chain 1 does NOT count as a stitch.

You will be adding 2 stitches on each row and joining to row 34.

Your first added stitch will be your beginning stitch and will go into the stitch behind where you have turned from the row below.

Your second added stitch will be your last stitch which goes into the next sc in Row 34.


35. 2sc, ch1, turn. (2)

36. 1sc in row below, 2sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (4)

Row 36 in photo form!




37. 1sc in row below, 4sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (6)

38. 1sc in row below, 6sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (8)

39. 1sc in row below, 8sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (10)

40. 1sc in row below, 10sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (12)



41. 1sc in row below, 12sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (14)

42. 1sc in row below, 14sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (16)

43. 1sc in row below, 16sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (18)

44. 1sc in row below, 18sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (20)

45. 1sc in row below, 20sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (22)

46. 1sc in row below, 22sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, SLIP STITCH in next stitch along on row 34 (24)


47. TURN your work. Skip ss, 1sc in each stitch around ending with your last sc going into the same stitch as your slip stitch from last round. (36)




Back to working in continuous spirals






48. sc in each stitch around (36)

49. 27sc, [dec] x3, 3sc (33)
50. sc in each stitch around (33)

51. 26sc, [dec] x3, 1sc (30)
52. sc in each stitch around (30)

Stuff body section to tummy. Leave neck free of stuffing
You will be using slip stitches in the next few rounds – try to keep them as loose as possible otherwise you will struggle to get your hook into them on the following round

53. 8sc, 10hdc, 8sc, 4ss (30)
54. 8sc, 10hdc, 8sc, 4ss (30)

55. 1ss, 7sc, 10hdc, 7sc, 5ss (30)

Stuff bottom


56. dec, 7sc, 10hdc, 7sc, [dec] x2 (27)

57. [dec] x2, 4sc, 11hdc, 4sc, [dec] x2 (23)

58. 6ss, 11hdc, 6ss (23)
59. 6ss, 11hdc, 6ss (23)

Stuff tail section a little more

60. dec, 6ss, 8hdc, 5ss, dec (21)
61. sc in each stitch around (21)

62. dec, 15sc, [dec] x2 (18)

63. sc in each stitch around (18)
64. sc in each stitch around (18)
65. sc in each stitch around (18)

Stuff. From this point, continue to lightly stuff and shape as you go.

66. [dec] x2, 12sc, dec (15)

67. sc in each stitch around (15)
68. sc in each stitch around (15)
69. sc in each stitch around (15)
70. [dec] x3, 7sc, dec (11)

71. sc in each stitch around (11)
72. sc in each stitch around (11)
73. sc in each stitch around (11)

74. [dec] x2, 7sc (9)

75. sc in each stitch around (9)
76. sc in each stitch around (9)

77. 1sc, [dec] x3 (6)

78. sc in each stitch around (6)

Cut yarn, thread needle and run through the outside loops of the last 6 stitches, pull tight then weave in.







Tail Fin – first side

BLO = work into the back loop only
Chain 1 does not count as a stitch

1. [fsc] x9, ,ch1, turn (9)
2. BLO 9sc, ,ch1, turn (9)
3. BLO 7sc, ch1, turn (7)
4. BLO 7sc, ch1, turn (7)
5. BLO 5sc, ch1, turn (5)
6. 3ss (3)

Cut yarn leaving tail for sewing onto tail



Tail Fin – second side


BLO = work into the back loop only
Chain 1 does not count as a stitch

1. [fsc] x9, ,ch1, turn (9)
2. BLO 9sc, ,ch1, turn (9)
3. BLO 7sc, ch1, turn (7)
4. BLO 7sc, ch1, turn (7)
5. BLO 5sc, ch1, turn (5)
6. 3ss, then join to first side with 2ss through both fins. (5)




Cut yarn leaving tail for sewing onto tail

Using the tail ends from your fsc, thread onto a needle and pass into the center of your fins. Pass both tails through and knot securely at the back.





Pin to the main body of the tail then using your long tails (not the ones you just knotted) sew onto the main tail down each side.



Weave all ends into the body of the tail.






Arms – make two


1. Magic ring, 6sc (6)
2. [inc] x6 (12)
3. [1sc, inc] x6 (18)

4. 1sc, [dc5tog, ss] x4, 9sc (18)


Using the handle of your crochet hook or finger, push the bobbles from the inside to ensure they are fully puffed out


5. 10hdc, [dec] x4 (14)


You will be using slip stitches in the next few rounds – try to keep them as loose as possible otherwise you will struggle to get your hook into them on the following round


6. 10hdc, [ss] x4 (14)
7. 10hdc, [ss] x4 (14)

8. 1ss, 7hdc, 1ss, 5sc (14)

9. sc in each stitch around (14)

10. [5sc, dec] x2 (12)

11. sc in each stitch around (12)

12. [2sc, dec] x3 (9)


Fasten off yarn leaving a long tail for sewing to the body.
Leaving the arm unstuffed and flattening the paw gives a nice effect.

To flatten the paws, push the center of the paw flat firmly with your thumb to create inward curve to the paw hands.

One arm will curve down whilst the other curves up. This makes your kitten very posable and expressive!







Ears – make two

1. Magic ring, 3sc (3)
2. [inc] x3 (6)
3. [1sc, inc] x3 (9)
4. [2sc, inc] x3 (12)
5. [3sc, inc] x3 (15)


Fasten off yarn leaving a long tail for sewing to the head.







Assembly


Pin ears and arms in place – I like to slightly squash the top of the arms and sew on flat as this gives the kitten a floppy, posable quality.

Embroider the face with your pink and black scraps of yarn and you are done!




I would absolutely LOVE to see any Purrmaids you make – please feel free to tag me in your photos on Instagram (I am @puddnhead) or post them to my Facebook page here! <3 br="">
Happy Crocheting!

Robin x



The sharing of this pattern is not permitted. You may not sell this pattern, claim it as your own or use the photographs.

You are however, welcome to sell your completed purrmaid.

I would appreciate it hugely if you include credit to me “HookedbyRobin” for the pattern




Continue reading Crochet Purrmaid Mermaid Cat - FREE amigurumi mercat pattern

Sunday, 19 May 2019

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Crochet Mermaid Tail FREE PATTERN - Hooked by Robin mermaid tail


This is my very popular mermaid tail blanket pattern which was one of my bestsellers. I now am releasing this pattern for FREE here on my blog. If you would like an ad free PDF version, for a small fee it can be purchased from my Etsy store here




Mermaid Tail Blanket Pattern (USA Stitch Terms)

FREE Crochet Mermaid Tail Blanket Pattern by HookedbyRobin
The mermaid tail is made using 3 strands of yarn worked together on a 10mm hook.


For the body you will need one strand of chunky and 2 strands of double knit weight yarn worked together at the same time.

I have noted the approximate meterage of yarn I use for my adult sized blankets, if you wish to extend the length of the blanket; you will of course need more.

My mermaid tails work up to be approximately 42 inches in length excluding the tail fin and so are lap sized for an average adult.

For the fin and contrasting top band, it is again made using 3 strands of yarn worked together at the same time.

One ball of each of your chosen colours will be plenty.

If you wish your fin to be stiffer and to hold its shape better, you can use 4 strands of dk yarn.

I personally like using variegated yarn for the fin and contrasting band, however, for the photos in this pattern I have used solid colours so you can see the stitches more clearly.



The tail is a foot pouch which then opens up at the back to become a standard blanket so is easy to get and out of.

This also gives you more flexibility for any alterations you may need to make for the height and width of the tail you wish to make. Once the foot pouch has been made, by simply extending the length of the blanket or increasing the stitch count will produce a longer or wider blanket.

This pattern is highly adaptable; experimenting with different colour combinations will produce unique tails and give lots of creative licence to you the creator!



Materials needed:

Mermaid Tail Body (3 strands of yarn worked at the same time)

Approximately:

  • 500m chunky yarn
  • 500 – 550m of double knit yarn
  • 500 – 550m of double knit yarn
  • 10mm crochet hook


Mermaid Fin and contrasting trim

  • 3 balls of 100g dk yarn will be plenty (3 strands worked at the same time)
  • 10mm hook


Stitches used (main body of blanket):

  • Magic ring / circle
  • Ch (chain)
  • Dc (double crochet)
  • Inc (increase = 2dc in same stitch)
  • Slip Stitch (ss)

Special stitches used (contrasting band):

  • Fpdc (front post double crochet)
  • Bpdc (back post double crochet)


Special stitches used (tail fin):

  • Fhdc (foundation half double crochet)
  • Hdc (half double crochet)
  • Sc (single crochet)




*small note – for this pattern, I have used a ch2 to start each round / row.

If you wish to substitute this ch2 for a standing double crochet or any other variation of avoiding the chain gap, please feel free to do so. There is a wonderful tutorial on 3 differing methods by Felted Button here: http://www.feltedbutton.com/2014/09/mind-gap-avoiding-turning-chain-hole.html




** Repeat the pattern between the asterisks “* *” until end of round



Mermaid tail body – foot pouch section

Leave a long tail of yarn before you start your work so you can use it to help secure your fin to the body later.

Using 3 strands of yarn (1 chunky, 2 dk)

WORKING IN ROUNDS

Ch2 counts as first dc stitch.

Join at the end of each round. When joining, slip stitch into the top of your initial ch2.


1. Magic ring, ch2, 11dc into the ring (12)



2. Ch2, 1dc into same stitch. *2dc into each stitch* (24)
3. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (24)
4. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (24)

5. Ch2, inc in next stitch. *1dc, inc* (36)
6. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (36)
7. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (36)
8. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (36)

9. Ch2, 1dc into next 4 stitches, inc in next. *5dc, inc* (42)
10. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (42)
11. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (42)
12. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (42)

13. Ch2, 1dc into next 5 stitches, inc in next. *6dc, inc* (48)
14. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (48)
15. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (48)
16. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (48)
17. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (48)

18. Ch2, 1dc into next 6 stitches, inc in next. *7dc, inc* (54)
19. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (54)
20. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (54)
21. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (54)
22. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (54)

23. Ch2, 1dc into next 7 stitches, inc in next. *8dc, inc* (60)
24. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (60)





Foot pouch complete! Onto the blanket section.

** Repeat the pattern between the asterisks “* *” until end of round



Mermaid tail body – blanket section

Now you will not be working in joined rounds but in traditional rows. Turn your work at the end of each row.


WORKING IN ROWS

Ch2 counts as first dc stitch.

DO NOT Join at the end of each round.

TURN YOUR WORK at the end of each row.


25. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (60)
26. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (60)
27. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (60)
28. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (60)
29. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (60)





30. Ch2, 1dc into next 8 stitches, inc in next. *9dc, inc* (66)
31. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (66)
32. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (66)
33. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (66)
34. Ch2, 1dc into next 9 stititches, inc in next. *10dc, inc* (72)
35. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (72)
36. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (72)
37. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (72)
38. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (72)
39. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (72)
40. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (72)
41. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (72)
42. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (72)
43. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (72)
44. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (72)
45. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (72)
46. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (72)
47. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* (72)
48. Ch2, *1dc into each stitch* - end final stitch by joining your contrasting band yarn (72)




Cut your tail body yarn leaving long tail to weave in afterwards. With your 3 strands of contrasting band yarn ready, onto the band!

Contrasting band

Using 3 strands of dk yarn.

WORKING IN ROWS

Ch2 counts as first dc stitch.

TURN YOUR WORK at the end of each row.


  1. Ch2, 1dc into each stitch around (72)



  1. Ch2, fpdc around first stitch from row below. Bpdc around the next. Continue to alternate fpdc, bpdc around. (72)









In this photo of one of my rainbow ombre tail bands, you can clearly see the alternating fpdc and bpdc.






Cut your yarn, leaving long tail to weave in.

Mermaid tail body section and contrasting band complete!

Onto the fin.




Mermaid Fin – first section


Leave a long tail of yarn before you start your work for sewing corner of your fin inwards.

The fin is worked in 2 sections. Leaving stitches unworked at the end of the rows gives the stepped effect.

WORKING IN ROWS

Ch2 DOES NOT count as first dc stitch.

Work in the back loops only to produce the ribbed effect.

TURN YOUR WORK at the end of each row.


1. 30 fhdc. Ch2, turn. (30)



All rows are now worked in the BACK LOOP ONLY.

2. Hdc in each stitch. Ch2, turn. (30)




3. Hdc into next 27 stitches, leaving last 3 stitches unworked. Ch2, turn. (27)



4. Hdc in each stitch. Ch2, turn. (27)



5. Hdc into next 24 stitches, leaving last 3 stitches unworked. Ch2, turn. (24)
6. Hdc in each stitch. Ch2, turn. (24)

7. Hdc into next 21 stitches, leaving last 3 stitches unworked. Ch2, turn. (21)
8. Hdc in each stitch. Ch2, turn. (21)

9. Hdc into next 18 stitches, leaving last 3 stitches unworked. Ch2, turn. (18)
10. Hdc in each stitch. Ch2, turn. (18)

11. Hdc into next 15 stitches, leaving last 3 stitches unworked. Ch1 then cut your yarn leaving at least 36 inches for shaping and sewing tail fin. (15)



First section complete! Onto the second section.

Mermaid Fin – second section


Leave a long tail of yarn before you start your work for sewing corner of your fin inwards.

Leaving stitches unworked at the end of the rows gives the stepped effect.

WORKING IN ROWS

Ch2 DOES NOT count as first dc stitch.

Work in the back loops only to produce the ribbed effect.

TURN YOUR WORK at the end of each row.


1. 30 fhdc. Ch2, turn. (30)

All rows are now worked in the BACK LOOP ONLY.

2. Hdc in each stitch. Ch2, turn. (30)

3. Hdc into next 27 stitches, leaving last 3 stitches unworked. Ch2, turn. (27)
4. Hdc in each stitch. Ch2, turn. (27)

5. Hdc into next 24 stitches, leaving last 3 stitches unworked. Ch2, turn. (24)
6. Hdc in each stitch. Ch2, turn. (24)

7. Hdc into next 21 stitches, leaving last 3 stitches unworked. Ch2, turn. (21)
8. Hdc in each stitch. Ch2, turn. (21)

9. Hdc into next 18 stitches, leaving last 3 stitches unworked. Ch2, turn. (18)
10. Hdc in each stitch. Ch2, turn. (18)

11. Hdc into next 15 stitches, leaving last 3 stitches unworked. Ch1, turn (15)

DO NOT CUT YOUR YARN.

Place your first fin section alongside your current one, run the long tail of yarn along the side of your first section.



Crochet the 2 sections together using sc whilst sandwiching the long tail in-between the 2 fin sections. (15)









Cut your yarn leaving a long tail for weaving and sewing your fin.



Shaping and attaching your fin

Flip your fin over so that the sc row is at the back.

Weave the long tails of yarn in opposite directions then gently pull the tails to gather the top of your fin sections together.







Thread the tails through the top of your sc joining.

Once you have gathered both sections of your fin and passed the tails through the top of the sc row, tie a knot to secure in place.







Take the tails from your fhdc and thread them into the same place to also help secure your fin sides.


Pass all these yarn tails into the middle of your magic ring and knot securely on the inside of the body of your blanket.

Then, using the tails, sew each side of the fin to the first couple of rows of your blanket.






Experiment to see how you like how the fin sits and the shape – there is no right or wrong way to sew on your tail!

Once you are happy with your fin placement, securely knot all the tail ends together inside your blanket. Trim the knots and add a drop of washable glue to ensure the knot with not come undone in the washing process.







Enjoy lounging around in your tail. If you sing loudly enough, you may even find sailors are attracted to your door and will do your bidding whilst you bask in their attention.*

*sailors not guaranteed ;)




I would absolutely LOVE to see any Mermaid Tail blankets you make – please feel free to tag me in your photos on Instagram (I am @puddnhead) or post them to my Facebook page here! <3 br="">
If you have a question, why not check out my FAQs blog post here: http://byrobin.blogspot.com/2016/09/crochet-mermaid-tail-blanket-pattern.html




Happy crocheting!

Robin x




Continue reading Crochet Mermaid Tail FREE PATTERN - Hooked by Robin mermaid tail