Wednesday, 29 May 2019

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Crochet Purrmaid Mermaid Cat - FREE amigurumi mercat pattern



This is my very popular Purrmaid pattern which was one of my bestsellers. I now am releasing this pattern for FREE here on my blog. If you would like an ad free PDF version, for a small fee it can be purchased from my Etsy store here

VIDEO TUTORIALS FOR THE PURRMAID ARE BEING RELEASED THIS WEEK!

Subscribe to my YouTube channel HERE!


Crochet amigurumi purrmaid pattern FREE



(USA Stitch Terms)


Materials needed:



· 1 x 50g ball Scheepjes Stone Washed in “Moon Stone”
· Variegated yarn of your choice (less than 50g required for tail)
· A scrap of black & a scrap of pink dk yarn
· 3.5mm hook
· Stuffing
· Stitch Marker (optional but advised – particularly when working the head)
· Needle
· Scissors


Stitches used:

v Magic ring / circle

v Sc (single crochet)

v Inc (increase = 2sc in same stitch)

v Dec (decrease = 1sc over 2 stitches) – I use the invisible decrease working in the front loops only

v Hdc (half double crochet)

v Dc5tog (double crochet 5 together) – this forms a bobble for the toe 

v Slip Stitch (ss)

v Fsc (foundation single crochet)

Repeat the pattern between the square brackets “[ ]” the number of times as shown by “X number”

The number in brackets “( )” at the end of each round is your total stitches that you will have worked in that round

Unless specifically instructed, work in spirals; do not join at the end of your rounds.




Purrmaid Head, Body & Tail – worked as one piece

The head is made using staggered increases to avoid the hexagonal increase lines you would normally find in standard circle increasing.

You may find using a stitch marker at the end of your rows helpful for this part in particular as the stitch count is more unusual than standard amigurumi increasing and it is easy to lose your place!

So, with your trusty stitch marker at the ready – let’s begin!

Using Moon Stone

1. Magic ring, 6sc (6)
Place stitch marker and move after each subsequent round

2. [inc] x6 (12)
3. [1sc, inc] x6 (18)
4. 1sc, inc, [2sc, inc] x5, 1sc (24)
5. [3sc, inc] x6 (30)
6. 2sc, inc, [4sc, inc] x5, 2sc (36)
7. [5sc, inc] x6 (42)

8. sc in each stitch around (42)
9. sc in each stitch around (42)
10. sc in each stitch around (42)
11. sc in each stitch around (42)
12. sc in each stitch around (42)
13. sc in each stitch around (42)

14. [5sc, dec] x6 (36)
15. 2sc, dec, [4sc, dec] x5, 2sc (30)
16. [3sc, dec] x6 (24)
17. 1sc, dec, [2sc, dec] x5, 1sc (18)

Stuff head firmly



18. [1sc, dec] x6 (12)
19. [2sc, dec] x3 (9)

Finish stuffing head

20. [2sc, inc] x3 (12)

21. [inc] x6, 6sc (18)
22. sc in each stitch around (18)

23. 4sc, [inc] x6, 8sc (24)

24. sc in each stitch around (24)
25. sc in each stitch around (24)

26. 7sc, [inc] x6, 11sc (30)

27. sc in each stitch around (30)
28. sc in each stitch around (30)

29. 10sc, [inc] x6, 14sc (36)

30. sc in each stitch around (36)
31. sc in each stitch around (36)

CHANGE COLOUR – use variegated yarn for tail section now




32. sc in each stitch around (36)
33. sc in each stitch around (36)
34. sc in each stitch around (36)


Now we will begin shaping the bend in the tail. We will be using SHORT ROW SHAPING.

This can be a little difficult to describe so I have included a colour coded chart at the end of the short row shaping section to help visualise your stitches rather than adding too many colour photographs.



No longer working in continuous rounds but working back and forth in rows.

Turn your work after each row. Your chain 1 does NOT count as a stitch.

You will be adding 2 stitches on each row and joining to row 34.

Your first added stitch will be your beginning stitch and will go into the stitch behind where you have turned from the row below.

Your second added stitch will be your last stitch which goes into the next sc in Row 34.


35. 2sc, ch1, turn. (2)

36. 1sc in row below, 2sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (4)

Row 36 in photo form!




37. 1sc in row below, 4sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (6)

38. 1sc in row below, 6sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (8)

39. 1sc in row below, 8sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (10)

40. 1sc in row below, 10sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (12)



41. 1sc in row below, 12sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (14)

42. 1sc in row below, 14sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (16)

43. 1sc in row below, 16sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (18)

44. 1sc in row below, 18sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (20)

45. 1sc in row below, 20sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (22)

46. 1sc in row below, 22sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, SLIP STITCH in next stitch along on row 34 (24)


47. TURN your work. Skip ss, 1sc in each stitch around ending with your last sc going into the same stitch as your slip stitch from last round. (36)




Back to working in continuous spirals






48. sc in each stitch around (36)

49. 27sc, [dec] x3, 3sc (33)
50. sc in each stitch around (33)

51. 26sc, [dec] x3, 1sc (30)
52. sc in each stitch around (30)

Stuff body section to tummy. Leave neck free of stuffing
You will be using slip stitches in the next few rounds – try to keep them as loose as possible otherwise you will struggle to get your hook into them on the following round

53. 8sc, 10hdc, 8sc, 4ss (30)
54. 8sc, 10hdc, 8sc, 4ss (30)

55. 1ss, 7sc, 10hdc, 7sc, 5ss (30)

Stuff bottom


56. dec, 7sc, 10hdc, 7sc, [dec] x2 (27)

57. [dec] x2, 4sc, 11hdc, 4sc, [dec] x2 (23)

58. 6ss, 11hdc, 6ss (23)
59. 6ss, 11hdc, 6ss (23)

Stuff tail section a little more

60. dec, 6ss, 8hdc, 5ss, dec (21)
61. sc in each stitch around (21)

62. dec, 15sc, [dec] x2 (18)

63. sc in each stitch around (18)
64. sc in each stitch around (18)
65. sc in each stitch around (18)

Stuff. From this point, continue to lightly stuff and shape as you go.

66. [dec] x2, 12sc, dec (15)

67. sc in each stitch around (15)
68. sc in each stitch around (15)
69. sc in each stitch around (15)
70. [dec] x3, 7sc, dec (11)

71. sc in each stitch around (11)
72. sc in each stitch around (11)
73. sc in each stitch around (11)

74. [dec] x2, 7sc (9)

75. sc in each stitch around (9)
76. sc in each stitch around (9)

77. 1sc, [dec] x3 (6)

78. sc in each stitch around (6)

Cut yarn, thread needle and run through the outside loops of the last 6 stitches, pull tight then weave in.







Tail Fin – first side

BLO = work into the back loop only
Chain 1 does not count as a stitch

1. [fsc] x9, ,ch1, turn (9)
2. BLO 9sc, ,ch1, turn (9)
3. BLO 7sc, ch1, turn (7)
4. BLO 7sc, ch1, turn (7)
5. BLO 5sc, ch1, turn (5)
6. 3ss (3)

Cut yarn leaving tail for sewing onto tail



Tail Fin – second side


BLO = work into the back loop only
Chain 1 does not count as a stitch

1. [fsc] x9, ,ch1, turn (9)
2. BLO 9sc, ,ch1, turn (9)
3. BLO 7sc, ch1, turn (7)
4. BLO 7sc, ch1, turn (7)
5. BLO 5sc, ch1, turn (5)
6. 3ss, then join to first side with 2ss through both fins. (5)




Cut yarn leaving tail for sewing onto tail

Using the tail ends from your fsc, thread onto a needle and pass into the center of your fins. Pass both tails through and knot securely at the back.





Pin to the main body of the tail then using your long tails (not the ones you just knotted) sew onto the main tail down each side.



Weave all ends into the body of the tail.






Arms – make two


1. Magic ring, 6sc (6)
2. [inc] x6 (12)
3. [1sc, inc] x6 (18)

4. 1sc, [dc5tog, ss] x4, 9sc (18)


Using the handle of your crochet hook or finger, push the bobbles from the inside to ensure they are fully puffed out


5. 10hdc, [dec] x4 (14)


You will be using slip stitches in the next few rounds – try to keep them as loose as possible otherwise you will struggle to get your hook into them on the following round


6. 10hdc, [ss] x4 (14)
7. 10hdc, [ss] x4 (14)

8. 1ss, 7hdc, 1ss, 5sc (14)

9. sc in each stitch around (14)

10. [5sc, dec] x2 (12)

11. sc in each stitch around (12)

12. [2sc, dec] x3 (9)


Fasten off yarn leaving a long tail for sewing to the body.
Leaving the arm unstuffed and flattening the paw gives a nice effect.

To flatten the paws, push the center of the paw flat firmly with your thumb to create inward curve to the paw hands.

One arm will curve down whilst the other curves up. This makes your kitten very posable and expressive!







Ears – make two

1. Magic ring, 3sc (3)
2. [inc] x3 (6)
3. [1sc, inc] x3 (9)
4. [2sc, inc] x3 (12)
5. [3sc, inc] x3 (15)


Fasten off yarn leaving a long tail for sewing to the head.







Assembly


Pin ears and arms in place – I like to slightly squash the top of the arms and sew on flat as this gives the kitten a floppy, posable quality.

Embroider the face with your pink and black scraps of yarn and you are done!




I would absolutely LOVE to see any Purrmaids you make – please feel free to tag me in your photos on Instagram (I am @puddnhead) or post them to my Facebook page here! <3 br="">
Happy Crocheting!

Robin x



The sharing of this pattern is not permitted. You may not sell this pattern, claim it as your own or use the photographs.

You are however, welcome to sell your completed purrmaid.

I would appreciate it hugely if you include credit to me “HookedbyRobin” for the pattern




8 comments:

  1. Thank you thank you thank you thank you for posting this pattern. I've had it "in my cart" on Etsy for so long, was so sad when it wasn't available. As soon as you posted this on FB, I rushed over to Etsy to get my copy - right now! Can't wait to start stitching. So cute! Again, thanks! :-)

    ReplyDelete
  2. I was happy to purchase too. Despite the written pattern and the diagram I can’t wait to see the video for the short row shaping. I’m very much a visual person. I’m struggling a bit but I’ll keep trying until the video is ready.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I uploaded a video to facebook a couple of years ago on the short row shaping which may help! (I've also embedded it into this blog post now but here is the direct link: https://www.facebook.com/HookedbyRobin/videos/1010670792396422/ )

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  3. This is such a sweet pattern and I can't wait to make it.
    Must've taken quite a lot of trial and error, especially with the tail.

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  4. I was just wondering, if there was a way once you get to row 36 to split the body and the tail? As in the body being one part and then the tail being separate. I'd love to use this as a bag for my gaming dice and store them in the tail but since it's all done as one piece it would be hard to get them in and out of the purrmaid. Any help is greatly appreciated.

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  5. What I would do is either just fasten off at row 31 with an invisible decrease and stuff, maybe sew on a fabric panel or continue on to decrease until close and then start from row 32. I would add an extra row of just sc to that section, but to start, chain 36, join into a circle and then be sure to chain into the BACK BAR of your foundation row to get a nice edge for your pouch edge. Then complete the tail as the pattern describes. Hope this helps!

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  6. OR when you'just starting the rows of sc back around the full tail at 48, for the first two rows do 2 ch the other stitches until you get.to the other side of the back accross the belly until only 2 stitches from row 34 are left, sc in these 2.as well as the rest of.row 47. Row 49 sc in all the back sts, the first two sts you made and all the ch sts (again in the back bar) and then all the sts after. Finish the tail to the patter. When your done,stuff as you wish, sew a little fabric panel in through your gap and then sew a zipper in the gap for your opening!

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  7. Thanks for the beautiful pattern! It's my first amigurumi project and I love it!

    ReplyDelete